Saving
Graves
How to do Gravestone Rubbings
Please note this practice has been
regulated or banned in some states and in many cemeteries (particularly in
colonial graveyards) due to the damage it can cause
to the stone. For example, please see Section
289:22 of the State of New Hampshire Revised Statutes. Because old
gravestones are an important part of our national heritage, you should be as
careful with them as you are when handling other ancient folk art treasures.
Many cemeteries now ask for permits before you are allowed to do rubbings. Common
courtesy tells us that we should first ask for permission from the cemetery or
graveyard superintendent or sexton prior to doing rubbings or taking
photographs. We strongly advise to check this information out in advance,
if at all possible. How can we expect the general public to respect our
cemeteries if we ourselves don't abide by the rules and regulations?
Without question, when it comes to recording
inscriptions, one of the most demanding problems is when the stone has become so
weathered over time that the lettering becomes almost impossible to read.
Tombstone rubbings have been commonly used for many years as one of the primary
methods for the preservation of a stone's inscription. The following
information is designed to show how to do a tombstone rubbing safely, and when
to use an alternative method of documentation.
MATERIALS NEEDED
- Soft-bristle brush
Metallic brushes are entirely too harsh, can cause damage to the stone,
and they also leave particles on the surface of the stone that can rust. You
should use the softest bristle brush possible.
- At least one large sponge
Used for among other things, soaking up excess water when washing a
stone.
- Cleaning Water
You may also want to bring a small spray bottle of water for gently
cleaning dirt and debris from the stone. The spray bottle, should contain only
water and not detergent or chemicals of any kind that would
damage and further erode the stone's material. You might want to use Photo
Flo, which is made by Kodak and used in photo developing. Mix one cap
full per gallon of water. Wash stone with solution, then rinse stone with
clean water.
- Kneeling Pads
Can be found in most nurseries,
garden supply stores or department stores such as Target.
- Towel or old rags
Used to kneel on or clean polished granite stones. Launder them first, but
do NOT use fabric softener. The softener will affect their ability to absorb
liquids as well as cutting down on the "magnetism" for dirt and
dust.
- Hand cleaner
Bring along a sample size of antibacterial waterless hand cleaners or
wipes.
- Masking or drafting tape
Keep in mind here that most, if not all tapes - duct, masking, strapping
tape, etc. all leave adhesive behind. You want to try to find a way to
attach the paper to the stone that will leave nothing behind. As an
alternative, you may want to hook together several rubber bands to make a
long rubber band that will go around the grave stone, using one at the top
and one at the bottom of the stone to hold the paper in place.
- Scissors or retractable razor knife
To cut paper or trim tall grass around the base of a stone
- Hand-held grass clippers
For trimming grass and/or weeds close to the stones. Do NOT use
weed whacker type trimmers as these can scar the stones. These are
quite likely the single most destructive implement to ever be introduced
into a cemetery, and there are hundreds of examples of the damage that these
tools have sauced to stones by people that use them to clear away grass and
weeds by base of the stone. For site clearing/cleaning, a pair of
pruning shears or hedge clippers is also helpful for brush that is too thick
to rip out or cut with grass clippers, but not thick enough to bother with a
chain saw.
- Rubbing Surface - Paper
Most monument companies will supply you with a special blue paper. It
contains wax in it and is designed for doing rubbings of gravestones. The
important thing about this paper is not to let it get hot, as the wax
will melt and then the paper will not make good rubbings. There are some who
have expressed reservations regarding the use of this paper and advise
against using it, saying that "it leaves the wax behind and thus
creates a barrier for the natural transpiration and absorption of water. It
will also melt and turn dark or "waxy" with age and ruin the
natural color and patina of the stones". If you cannot find this paper,
plain white paper, newsprint, butcher paper, rice paper will work.
- Rubbing Surface - Pellon
Pellon works well, never is brittle and you can even find it in colors in
many cases. Pellon comes in a variety of stiffness. The thickest which is
specifically made for heavy fabrics. The lightest, or thinnest, is made for
lightweight fabrics and works best for rubbings. Look for plain with no
iron-on dots on it. Once your rubbing is finished, and you have
returned home, take out your iron, foil, wax paper, and ironing board.
Set the Pellon on the ironing board with the crayon side up, put foil under
the Pellon to protect the ironing board and wax paper (waxy side down) on
top of the crayon. Iron on a low setting, just high enough to melt the
crayon into the fabric. The end result is a very sturdy and frameable
rubbing that could last many lifetimes.
- Rubbing Surface - Newsprint
Blank newsprint paper can be purchased at larger craft stores or art supply
stores in large pads, or also can usually be purchased as roll ends from a
local newspaper for a very modest price. Some printers will even give it
away. They do however usually need the spools returned. One drawback with
using newsprint is that it is extremely acidic. Because it's dry when you
use it, it shouldn't hurt the stone or leave residue, however, the newsprint
will disintegrate and turn yellow and brittle over time.
- Rubbing Surface - Pellon
Tissue paper transfers easily, however, it is very fragile. A
interesting alternative that can be used is a very thin chamois or a thin
fake leather feeling cloth.
- Rubbing Surface - Butcher Paper
Can be found in most Butcher shops or grocery store meat departments. If
you wish to accommodate any size tombstone, you could take a (partial/whole)
roll of butcher paper, tearing off what you need for each tombstone.
Tip - You may want to take your rubbing
papers of choice, already cut to size, with you from home at the start of
your trip, carrying them in a mailing tube.
- Transfer medium
These include rubbing wax, black crayon charcoal and similar products.
With either charcoal or chalk, insure that a fixative is used. Be sure
that your medium will in no way leave any residue on the stone. The
Oregon Historic Cemeteries Alliance offers the following instructions on
making your own rubbing crayons. Gather all the leftover crayons from the
kids (all those little broken or remaining pieces) or go buy a new
box--cheap ones may be best. Melt them in a can. Place the can in a pot with
just a few inches of water and bring the water to a boil. Stay with the
crayons until they are melted. Use an old muffin tin (big muffins--not the
tiny ones) with a muffin paper (makes it easier to get out of the tin when
finished) and pour the melted crayons into the tin. Let stand until
crayons are completely solid again. The muffin paper will leave ridges in
the sides of the crayon, but these will wear down quickly. By using this
method, you can reuse the leftovers of these rubbing crayons, again and
again. A carpenter's crayon can also be used, and while somewhat more
expensive they will not melt in a hot car.
- Fixative
Fixative, such as Tuffilm Final Fixative made by Grumbacher, can be
purchased at any crafts store. Try to use a matte finish if possible.
Make sure it is NON-YELLOWING.
- Cardboard tube or art portfolio
Used for storing clean paper and finished prints.
- Pencil and Notepad
Used to record information about the stone or cemetery location.
The
Memorabilia Corner of Norman, Oklahoma offers a number of a number of these
supplies for sale over the internet as a part of their store website.
Gravestone
Artwear offers a basic gravestone rubbing kit for sale.
In addition, you will want to also look at
taking along the following safety items:
- Drinking water
Plan to bring at least several quarts of water with you for drinking , apart
from the water you use for washing the stones.
- Sunscreen
- Gloves
Both work gloves and rubber gloves.
- Work Boots
- Long-sleeved shirt
- Insect repellant
- First Aid kit
- Snakebite kit
- Bee and wasp spray
- Cellular phone
- Safety goggles
- Antibacterial liquid soap and or waterless
instant hand sanitizer
- Protective hand lotion
- IvyBlock
For poison ivy, oak and sumac.
A NOTE ABOUT SHAVING CREAM, FLOUR OR CHALK
A word of advice, DON'T use shaving cream ,
chalk, flour or anything else on tombstones!. These have many ingredients
harmful to tombstones (like butane) and in some cases can be abrasive. There are
a number of websites that promote this method,
with one going so far as to assure that the shaving cream will not harm the
stone. Please do not attempt this as you WILL be causing a great of
damage to the stone and even by washing it after you are finished you will not
remove all of the material that you have placed on the stone. More detailed
information on why not to use shaving cream on a stone can
be found here.
In the case of flour, Daniel H. Weiskotten [weiskotten@erols.com]
states that "introducing a starchy organic material to the stone is a death
nell for it. it not only will feed the lichens that are there but will introduce
new ones which will have little natural competition. Also, wheat paste, which
the flour essentially becomes when that first rain pours down (or the first dew
forms) is a great adhesive. Just because we can't see any of it doesn't mean
that it is all gone. Those little fungi and microbes love that sort of stuff and
it is best not to introduce anything to the surface of the stone."
According to the Crayola website, Molded chalk,
such as Crayola Colored chalk, is a softer chalk, made of plaster of Paris,
which is defined as quick-setting gypsum plaster consisting of a fine,
white powder, calcium sulfate hemihydrate, which hardens when moistened and
allowed to dry. Sidewalk chalk is much harder than regular chalk; in fact, will
actually scratch a typical chalkboard. Saving Graves received the following
response from Crayola concerning the use of sidwalk chalk:
"Crayola sidewalk chalk contains plaster of paris which has a gritty
texture. Plaster of paris is not considered to be biodegradable, nor are most of
the pigments contained in Crayola sidewalk chalk. Also, product packaging warns
of colorants that may stain. This could be a good factor depending on the exact
nature of what you are trying to do. While packaging does warn of colorants that
may stain, chalk used outside generally washes away because of extreme weather
conditions and excessive rain. Again, this could vary depending on the surface
it is applied to."
BEFORE STARTING
- Practice on a rock at home, or check with a
local monuments store to see if you can practice on one of their tombstones,
before going to the cemetery.
- As mentioned at the top of this page, before
you start check with the cemetery or with the state or local Historical
Society to learn if tombstone rubbings are permissible. This practice
has been banned in some states and cemeteries due to the damage it can
cause.
- In the case of cemeteries located on private
property, remember that you are doing rubbings on someone else's property.
It is ALWAYS advised to gain permission by attempting to speak with
the property owner, and explain want you want to do, BEFORE you begin. We
have put together a sample permission form
for your use in attempting to gain permission, with instructions. If
you do not get permission, please respect the wishes of the cemetery and ask
if you can take a photograph to record the information and condition of the
stone. If you find that a gravestone is severely damaged, please notify the
property owner or supervisor of the cemetery.
AT THE CEMETERY
- Be sure that the tombstone that you have
chosen is completely stable. If it is wobbly or the surface is
crumbling, then DO NOT do a rubbing. Take a photograph instead.
Lightly rap on the stone; if it has a "hollow" sound, DO NOT
use this stone to make a rubbing because it is vulnerable to accidental
damage.
- Before starting a stone rubbing, it may be
necessary to first clean the stone. Our How To
Clean A Gravestone page offers tips and advice on this process.
RUBBING THE STONE
- Make sure the stone is clean and completely
dry. Tape will not adhere to a wet stone, and the dampness will
make the paper fragile and liable to tear. Besides ruining any chance
of a rubbing, this may cause you to accidentally damage the stone with your
rubbing material.
- Cut a piece of your paper or other rubbing
material to a size slightly larger than the stone. If possible, write any
information on or about the stone, inscription, date, location, etc. on the
back of the paper before doing the rubbing so you don't smear your rubbing.
Or, carry a small notebook, write the information on a page, tear out and
roll up with your rubbing.
- Tape the paper to the stone. Make sure
that it is secure so that it won't slide as you are rubbing and cause a
blurred image, and that it covers the face of the stone completely, so that
you won't get marks on it.
- If only doing lunettes, please be sure that
a large enough area is covered to protect the stone.
- With your fingers, press the paper lightly
against the stone. This will cause the paper to indent into the
carvings, resulting in a clearer image, with less rubbing medium
accidentally transferring into "blank" areas.
- Using rubbing wax, a large crayon, charcoal,
or chalk, gently start to rub along the outside edges - creating a
"frame" for your rubbing. Using long, even strokes
following the same direction, fill in the "frame".
- Rub lightly to start with, and then apply
more pressure to darken in the design if it suits you. Be very careful and
gentle.
- If you used chalk for your rubbing, then
carefully spray the paper with a chalk spray such as Krylon. Be very
careful not to get any on the tombstone.
It is best to remove the paper from the stone and lay it flat on the ground
in an area away from any stones before spraying.
- When the rubbing is done, carefully remove
it from the tombstone and trim the edges to suit your liking. Remove the
tape from the paper, being careful not to tear the edges of the paper.
TRANSPORTATION ISSUES
- If you have a general idea as to the size of
the stones that you will be rubbing, you could pre cut your rubbing papers
of choice at home and carry them in a paper or plastic mailing tube.
You can also use a plastic 3" sewer or PVC plastic pipe, with one flat
end cap glued in place to the pipe and on the other end a screw in cap, that
is meant to be a cleanout. This way you will have your transportation
problem solved prior to starting your trip.
- Art portfolios used to transport
drawings/oils/pastels, etc. are great for storage and transportation of
rubbings that need to be laid flat. These can be somewhat expensive, but are
well worth it if you plan to do this over a long period of time. They have a
handle and zipper, can be locked, and are great for traveling on
planes or long trips. Cheaper portfolios, made of lightweight cardboard and
having only an elastic-band or wound-string closure, can also be used for
short-term storage, when you will be handling the package yourself and don't
need to worry about it being mishandled by a baggage attendant.
- Take along a roll of kitchen waxed paper to
go between each rubbing which will reduce or prevent smudging until you get
home.
- If you bring your fixative with you, please
take into account that any aerosol type of can, especially one containing
flammables, is liable to confiscation by airlines, as it is dangerous to
carry such materials aboard a plane.
PRESERVING THE RUBBING
- Once you get your rubbings home and wish to
preserve them in their original state, use an aerosol adhesive product. Two
sets of tweezers (found in "beading" section of art supply) should
be used to manipulate the rubbing (paper) onto acid-free mat board,
available at most art supply stores. Carefully line up the bottom edge of
the rubbing paper with the bottom edge of the board, then gently smooth the
paper upward onto the board using light pressure with a roller. Be
sure to keep the paper taut to prevent creasing or wrinkling.
- If you wish to further preserve rubbings
applied to mat board, apply the board to foam core, which is stiff enough to
withstand just about any handling. Make sure the foam core is also
acid-free, or it will contaminate the mat board over time.
- If you choose to frame your rubbings, be
sure the framer includes "spacers" between the paper and the
glass, to enable the paper to "breathe", and prevent damage from
condensation or mildew.
Alternative Methods
- Aluminum Foil Rubbing - An
alternative to traditional wax or crayon type rubbings is that of aluminum
foil & a damp sponge. Place foil on marker, dull side up so the sun
doesn't reflect back into your eyes Using the damp sponge press gently
so as to not tear the foil around the carving or writing areas and instantly
you have a 3-D impression of the marker that you can keep or ball it up and
put it into your recycling bag.
Additional information on alternative methods
for reading gravestones can be found here.
Copyright © 2000 - 2005 Saving Graves. All rights
reserved